Ask anyone about the Pilgrims and their journey on the Mayflower, and he or she will know that they departed from England and landed off the shore of what is now Massachusetts in the U.S. Many people also know about the Pilgrims’ search for religious freedom, Plymouth Rock, and the first Thanksgiving.
But how many know that the Pilgrims’ first search for a destination that would offer religious freedom took them to Holland? First landing in Amsterdam and settling there in 1608, the Pilgrims moved to nearby Leiden in 1609, where they would remain for a decade before returning to England to depart on their famous journey to the New World.
The move to Holland
In 1608 a group of English religious refugees settled in Amsterdam, joining other radical Protestants who had already separated from the Church of England. However, disagreements about religious beliefs split the Amsterdam congregation, so in 1609 Pastor John Robinson led about 100 followers from Amsterdam to the city of Leiden 35 miles away.
Known as the City of Refugees, Leiden had a population of 40,000 and was a welcoming place for immigrants: a third of the city’s inhabitants were Protestant refugees from Belgium, France, Germany and England. The people of Leiden practiced several different religions, and all were tolerated, but only the Calvinist Church was officially recognized by the government.
Many of the Pilgrims in Leiden were poor, working in the textile industry for low pay. However, some Pilgrims fared better and went on to become influential leaders in the New World. For example, William Bradford was a corduroy merchant in Leiden and later founded and became governor of Plymouth Colony.
From peace to protests
Founded in 1575, Leiden University became the intellectual center for Protestants in Europe, and one of the students there, Thomas Brewer, went on to finance the Pilgrims Progress periodical. This publication spread the word about a debate in 1617 between two theology professors at Leiden University, and eventually this dispute moved from the university to the general public.
Soon Leiden was no longer a peaceful, tolerant city, but a dangerous one with frequent riots and displays of prejudice against those with differing views. During this time period, Brewer and William Brewster, a leader known as one of the Pilgrim Fathers, published and distributed pamphlets criticizing King James of England. In 1619 Brewster was imprisoned in Leiden, but released the same year when he became ill. Once free, Brewster made his way back to England to prepare to lead the Pilgrims to the New World.
How Leiden influenced the Pilgrims
The decade that the Pilgrims spent in Leiden had a profound influence on the life they would build in the New World.
Thanksgiving
One of Leiden’s main holidays is Thanksgiving Day, celebrated on Oct. 3 to commemorate that date in 1574 when this Protestant town, under attack by Spanish Catholic troops, was saved. The Pilgrims no doubt took this tradition with them to Plymouth, resulting in their first Massachusetts Thanksgiving in 1621.
Election of governing officials
The democratic election of civil governing officials by the Pilgrims, as stipulated in the Mayflower Compact, had a parallel in the election of neighborhood officials by the residents of each of Leiden’s districts.
Civil marriage
Another tradition taken from the Dutch was the civil service marriage contract. Where the Dutch married in the town hall, the English only married in the church. This innovation brought with it the basis of the separation of church and state that later became one of the foundations of government in the U.S.
Tourism options in Leiden
Generations later, Mayflower descendants come to Leiden to connect with their ancestors and learn about where they spent many years before boarding the Speedwell to England and joining the Mayflower in Southampton. Others come to visit sites related to the Pilgrim story:
Museum De Lakenhal
Groups visiting can learn about the textile industry of the 17th century and view an impressive art collection as well. The attraction includes many works by the Old Masters, including Rembrandt, who was born in Leiden. The museum building was constructed in 1640, and it originally housed textile workers, inspectors and traders. The “Pilgrims to America” exhibit will be on display from March 14–June 30, 2020.
The Leiden American Pilgrim Museum
This museum is located in a historical building from the 14th century. In 1997, Pilgrim expert Dr. Jeremy Bangs founded the museum, which showcases furniture, household goods, books and items from that time.
Pieterskerk Leiden (St. Peter’s Church)
Pieterskerk—the oldest church in the city—has been a central monument in Leiden since the 12th century. With almost 900 years worth of history, it has been an important meeting place throughout Dutch history. John Robinson held meetings nearby, and he is buried on the church grounds. Groups can visit a Pilgrim exhibition inside the church and view a plaque that honors Robinson for his role in bringing the Pilgrims to Leiden.
William Brewstersteeg
This street is named after William Brewster, a printer in Leiden and a Pilgrim leader. There’s a plaque above the entrance to the street dedicated to Brewster.
De Waag
De Waag is a 17th-century Weigh House in Leiden. Not only were all wares coming to market brought here to be weighed, the landing in front of the Weigh House was the terminus of regular boat service to Leiden from Haarlem and Amsterdam. This is where the Pilgrims first set foot on Leiden’s land.
For more information, email Marlijn Kok of Leiden, Key to Discovery or go to mayflower400leiden.com.
Top photo: De Waag in Leiden
Photo by Kees Hummel
